posted by jonathan liljebladName: Reun Pair
Location: 5257 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA. 90027
Food: Thai, on the more authentic side
Service: Pleasant
Ambience: Ample, friendly, casual
Price: Moderate ($10-20 per person)
Arguably the most central figure in modern Thai society is the King. Known as Bhumibol Adulyadej Rama IX, His Majesty (hereinafter HM) looms large politically, culturally, and socially, holding a status that most Westerners would see as exceeding veneration and rising to near-deity. You'll see his picture or likeness placed liberally in Thai establishments, and his reign spoken of in reverent tones.
It's usually understood among Thais that no one--not even clueless Westerners--should speak negatively about the King, or do anything that might be deemed disrespectful. There's stories of foreigners in Thailand who've been prosecuted under criminal law for defacing images of HM (reference: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2007/apr/12/thailand).
While this level of veneration may seem odd to Westerners coming from societies devoid of royal traditions (i.e., the United States), it doesn't seem so odd when you learn a little bit more abou thim. The Thai King is a rather remarkable individual. A cursory review of his Wikipedia entry (reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhumibol_Adulyadej) will show that he is not only well-educated, well-respected, and well-known for his humanitarian efforts, but also is an accomplished jazz musician (he once played with Benny Goodman), a world-class sailor (he won a gold medal in the 1967 Southeast Asian Peninsular Games), and skilled engineer (he actually holds a patent). In addition, he is rather singular in having overseen Thailand's transition to democracy during the 1990s, and has remained committed to it during the country's course in the years since. In this light, it's apparent that the reverence of the Thai people for their King is with justification, and comparable to the same affection held by the British for Queen Elizabeth.
You'll see this adoration for HM in every Thai restaurant. At least, you will if it's authentic--if it doesn't, then it's a clear sign it's aimed at a cross-over audience, and a pretty big hint that the place is trying to lure Westerners. This isn't a bad thing...unless you are looking for authentic Thai food, of the kind frequented by Thai locals and accepted as the genuine article by Thai expatriates.
Fortunately for Los Angeles, the latter kind of restaurant is common in Thai Town. You can't go a block without running into an establishment reflecting "real" (i.e., "non-Westernized") cuisine. You know what this means: signs and menus primarily in Thai, waiters and cooks with barely legible English, food that you can't identify but that you find is to absolutely die for. The trick is to find a "real" place that's actually "good" (i.e., wherever the locals go, but never tell clueless Westerners).
Ruen Pair falls into the latter camp. Situated in a plaza across from the more popular Thai Patio, it has a decidedly non-descript exterior with very muted signage. But don't let this fool you. While the busier, flashier Thai Patio is heavily frequented by non-Thais, the less-busy, but still thriving, Ruen Pair is the place where the locals go...and never tell clueless Westerners.
The food at Ruen Pair is good. Not the classic spicy artillery assault typically associated with Thai cuisine, but definitely very much among the better exemplars of what Thai food is all about. There is spicy food, but the focus here is on taste. Particularly taste in a non-assuming, casual, matter-of-fact manner that is geared for people who just want their Thai-palates satiated.
The ambiance matches the food. It's not fancy. But it's tasteful. Good enough to bring a guest, but not so fancy that it'll require bringing out the bling bling wardrobe to impress them. As befits a genuine Thai establishment, the menus are primarily in Thai, with requisite English subtitles. There are no pictures, so you'll have to make do trying to translate the items with the staff, who are decidedly helpful in a supremely courteous kind of way. And of course, there's all the images of HM that you could ever possibly want, with even one frame holding images from his childhood, adolescence, youth, middle age, and current status.The better items on the menu, surprisingly, may not be the food. The drinks are, if the limit is held to 2 words, unique and good. Dry the longan tea. Ditto the hibiscus flower tea (yes, that's right, hibiscus flower). Amazing. Especially on a blazing hot day.
And of course, sample the menu. If you can't figure anything out, and can't understand what the waiter is saying, just close your eyes and pick something. You can't go wrong.
